I donât know, Iâm partial to the wood hangboards, I guess. It works a bunch of things. Perfect. I think thatâs true for me, too. It was amazing. Yeah. Iâd say campusing on big rungs, like I was saying, you donât want it to be finger strength limited and I donât want to go around saying, âV2 climbers should be campusing 1, 5, 8,â but trying to throw in some campusing, even itâs on climbs, is not a bad idea. They were setting pretty hard climbs and because it was so overhanging, I had to develop a pretty jumpy style for being small and not having the big muscles, being an 11 year old girl. Itâs annoying but itâs not at all debilitating. Iâve been climbing for about 10 years, competitively climbing for that entire time. A pound you barely notice so if youâre at 15 pounds you make it 16 pounds. Are you still training like this? It seems like a lot of people just get an unhealthy obsession with it and it seems like thatâd be pretty easy to have that happen if you are always checking it and always noticing, âOh, Iâm climbing pretty hard right now but Iâm five pounds lighter than I normally am.â That just seems like a dangerous road to go down. Basically because the growth plates in your fingers and stuff are still open and campusing can be really rough on growth plates. Okay,â but I try to not think about it too much. The reason why is that I donât want campusing to be limited by finger strength. Kyra Condie: Yeah, itâs been working pretty well. Thatâs just going up skipping one rung the entire time and not matching any. You do bouldering and sport climbing. Iâm sure there are a lot of vegetarians listening to this. I like incut holds, ones that you can actually feel like you get something out of. Right. Itâs 22 centimeters, I think. Neely Quinn: It sounds great. Thatâs one thing that Iâve done a lot. Kyra Condie: I agree with it. Kyra Condie: I probably do that, if I only boulder and do not do campusing or hangboarding, itâs maybe twice a week I would say. Basically my training would be leading up to going to try and climb something. I donât like getting thwarted by a move, you know? Kyra Condie: Well, once in every three-day cycle so itâs kind of in every three or four days. Usually after I do this I climb for at least two and a half hours. I used to think that I couldnât do some of the core exercises, like the classic endurance core. I tell so many people that this is, if youâre going to do something, train this. Would you ever do this on a day when you climb outside? I think that has something to do with not being able to engage that part of my back so all of the pressure and force lands on just the lumbar vertebrae because thatâs the spot where I can actually bend. Yeah, I think it takes about 40, usually. Itâs in Germany somewhere. Neely Quinn: Yeah, it will be cool to see what you do outside. Kyra Condie: Yeah, for sure, and strangely toeing into things Iâm quite good at, too. Since whenever I got back from traveling last summer. Yeah, so Iâve tried to explain campusing by talking before and it was kind of difficult, but basically for anybody who doesnât know, you have the numbers on the campus rungs and they are standard spacing apart. Itâs shame but itâs try hard. I try to get outside as much as possible as well but my focus is definitely on bouldering competitions. Kyra Condie: Yeah, and itâs kind of crazy to be like, âWow, this climb felt so hard before but now I can repeat it daily, easily.â. I just work in a vet clinic here to get those 400 hours done. Alright, I hope you enjoyed that interview with Kyra Condie. That comes with the hangboarding. Neely Quinn: So, a couple questions about body weight and diet. Kyra Condie: No, Iâm not injured. I really like making coconut milk curry and I have it with cauliflower, spinach, broccoli, coconut milk and kind of thatâs it and Iâll put it on rice with curry. Kyra Condie: Itâs shame but itâs try hard. Up to two women per country can make the U.S. Olympic team. I have to think about that for a sec. When I came back from Africa, thatâs when I was finally able to hang on the hangboard with one hand without taking weight off. Yeah, and itâs kind of crazy to be like, âWow, this climb felt so hard before but now I can repeat it daily, easily.â. They do not pay me. I feel like Iâve seen a lot of improvement, even just this year, so I think itâs been really good. When we were commentating last year, we were like, âSheâs so fast! I went to the Red when I was like 12, before I got back surgery, and other than that Iâve climbed a couple days here and there at a place that we have near where I live in Minnesota and a couple of days out here in Utah. Not my home wall but it has a similar feel to the wall that I was climbing on in Minnesota and so Iâve spent a lot of time there. No big deal. Thereâs probably more hard climbs there than there are in Minnesota at the gym. Neely Quinn: Welcome to the TrainingBeta podcast where I talk with climbers and trainers about how we can get a little better at our favorite sport. I tell so many people that this is, if youâre going to do something, train this. Okay.â [laughs]. Theyâre like eggs and almond butter or something? Neely Quinn: Welcome to the show, Kyra. Kyra Condie: Letâs see. I think everyone wanted a chance to fight on our finals route and get a chance to win but the way that they did it, they just counted back to semi-finals which is too bad. If you start climbing a lot and focused-climbing a lot, focused-ly, if that makes sense [laughs] and not just going into the gym and kind of talking to your friends and occasionally climbing, which is what a lot of people do. What about abilities of climbers? [laughs]. Iâd been to Nationals by that point and so it was pretty devastating when I heard I had to get the surgery because I had no idea what that would mean for my climbing. When Condie asked if she could return to climbing, a nurse practitioner told her there were other things in life. I personally prefer when the climb is much harder. Iâve done those cardio classes occasionally with friends and thatâs kind of fun, like miserable but fun because youâre with people, but I find it hard to get motivated to do by myself. Yeah, Iâve had a lot of people be like, âOh, I donât want to campus because I donât want to get injured.â Itâs like, âIf you do it right you might not get injured.â. It should be okay. The next week I would try and make it seven pounds. Quinoa jambalaya is one of the things I make the most. It kind of depends on skin and I try to listen to the body. I really want to go to the Red maybe this fall and Iâm maybe going to Spain in the fall. Iâve definitely done that outside where Iâm like, âOkay, I need to rest seven minutes,â and sometimes you get too excited around minute three and you get back on the wall and have just a terrible attempt [laughs] so Iâve had to set a timer and do that before, but I donât usually do that in a gym. It used to be that if I could hear how people were doing Iâd get freaked out so Iâd listen to music super loud and not know how anyone was doing and I just decided that was probably not the best way of going about it, so I stopped listening to music while I was waiting. Itâs just hard to get enough, as a vegetarian especially. Itâs really admirable, too. How do you feel when you feel like youâre completely rested? So Iâve been focusing on trying to get more protein and so I supplement. Thatâs really smart, actually, and Iâve never talked about that with anybody. It says, âYou suck. Other than that I havenât really climbed outside sport climbing much at all. Sometimes if you donât grab it as well, if your fingers are a little stacked or something, you can only match the hold, you know? Climbing things like – if I donât like a climb, Iâll try to re-climb it anyway, even if I hate it, which is so hard to get myself to do sometimes because I feel like I must hate it for a reason, you know? I joined a team at our local gym and thatâs really how I got my start. No excuses. Yeah, theyâre kind of gross and restaurants kind of undercook them, in my opinion, a lot of times and it freaks me out. Yeah, youâre pretty good at jumping. Today begins the qualifying round of the 2014 SCS (Sport Climbing Series) Open National Championship at Sender One Climbing, Chris Sharma’s gym located in Santa Ana, CA.. Once again from Minnesota, Kyra Condie will be competing against the best women sport climbers in the country for the title of Open National Champion. Kind of the famous one is 1, 5, 9 and that would be a life goal but thatâs a ways away. Question: how did you come across three days on, one day off, three days on? Do you have an 8.5? Neely Quinn: With how much rest in between? Sometimes it has to vary, like today is actually – I did two days on and today is the one day off. Thatâs another reason why I like the one-handed ones. Thatâs a cool plan. Yeah, so I finished with classes for my undergrad degree and Iâm getting my undergrad degree in animal science, which is a pre-vet degree. TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. Yeah, letâs see. We take you through cycles of power and strength and finger strength and everything you need to be a great climber. Every time, everyone is like, âWhat the heck?â, Neely Quinn: [laughs] âYou did what?â, Kyra Condie: Yeah, like, âThatâs your back? Yeah, it sounds like youâve kind of made your way around certain things. Kyra Condie: Yeah, I think basically thatâs kind of how it works. Weâll talk all about that and this interview, honestly, was one of the most detailed, concise descriptions of any pro climberâs training program that Iâve ever had. Neely Quinn: As a vegetarian, what kinds of foods do you eat? I still have the muscle memory but not nearly as much as the people who do it all the time and practice it. That requires a lot of hours. Then, the second boulder which was the hardest boulder of the entire round and only Alex and Ashima did it, I should have been able to get to my high point on my second try but I think I was frazzled from that first climb and it just got to me.